Hyundai 2007 front brakes

DISCLAMER:  I have been repairing and replacing brakes since my first car in 1970.  If you do something wrong, not tighten the caliper nuts or lug nuts, you can hurt or kill someone. 
That someone could be you !

Update 2016:  After a vacation on a mountain side and 10 days of braking down a 3 mile hill, the rotors warped on my 2014 SFS 2.0T.
I replaced them with standard rotors, no more pulsating pedal (Sept, 2017)

I purchased some DRT rotors for my '07 Santa Fe due to pedal pulsation when they got warm (steering wheel shake during braking).  It wasn't that bad, but annoying.

First I took off the front wheels.  I chocked the back wheel, I have TWO lifts.  One under the wheel arm, the other under a bolt on the frame.  Either that or use a jack stand.  Never just one lift.

Note the rust... I have had it for just under two years, but I live in Jersey.

Typical disk brakes with aluminum shims holding the pads, two bolts on the side holding the calipers.  Two big bolts holding the brakes assembly to the frame.  The top frame bolt one came off with a wrench due to the frame being in the way of a socket wrench.  The bottom bolt is fine.  All 4 bolts came off easy.  They use special bolts that don't seize.

Now the fun part.  There are two Phillips screws that hold on the rotors during assembly.  You need a LARGE Phillips screwdriver end.  They were on tight, but not requiring an impact driver.   If you have one, just use it for the large Phillips end and the large diameter handle.  I used a 1/4" socket and Phillips end.  I did put anti-seize on these screws when I put them back on.

After getting off the screws I TRIED getting off the rims.  Tried a small hammer with a few pings.  Tried a 5 lb. hammer with a few pings left and right, left then right.  NOPE.  Penetrating lub.. and let it soak for 10 or 15 min.   You shouldn't bang the rims.  Just tap them to get them off the close fitting center hub.  After a few squirts the left side (driver side) came off.  The right side came right off with two taps.

These front rotor have 29K on them.

You would think with the two screws setting the center of the rotor correctly Hyundai would leave some center space.  Nope, it's a tight fit and I can only imagine 3 or 5+ years of rust keeping them on.  That can I used is some 10+ years old.  Don't get any spray on the pads or any rubber brake parts.  If you look at the image below, I did add anti-seize compound (very carefully) to the center.  Just a dab, you don't want that to smear down and hit the rotor surface ! I did clean the center hub too.

You are suppose to pay attention to the box.  The rotors are labeled RIGHT and LEFT on the box... of course it depends on what you call L and R. Being IN the car or looking AT the car. According to what I remember, RIGHT is passenger side.  Some rotors have them stamped which side they go on.  This just makes sense, water would be pushed from the center to the slot going outside along with it's own inertia.  Yet I read where other say they can go the other way.  I'm not doing 120mph racing and I have already put 100 miles on them since I installed them a week ago.  They work great in dry and wet weather.  I put back the original pads.  Note the large front pads.  The back pads are smaller, same type of system.

Actually from the Hyundia service site, they just take the bottom bolt out an loosen the top caliper bolt and slide them up when replacing pads.  These pads are impossible to find.  Two local stores and both were 3 - 5 day special order.  One store even said by the time they added special shipping, it would be cheaper to go to the dealer ! !   I got these rotors on line, and I had to check several places to get a Santa Fe model, more about that later.

These are the front pads after 29K.  Check the close up view .  I cleaned the slots out with a screwdriver.   I believe this is the right side pad, outside.  So the slots go slanting back from bottom to top.. same as the rotor slots. The inside pads have the metal "alert" arm that are suppose to scratch the rotor an make noise when they get low.  I would say, if you are checking them, after these pad slots disappear, change them.  They are some $39 - $50 a set.  These two fronts can pop off in 20 min.  The backs were easy too.

The place I got the rotors use Centric Parts, a wholesaler.  Can't buy directly from them. So the two rotors with shipping cost (5-'09) $155 from DRT, Lowell, Massachusetts.  They sell on E-bay as drt-sport

This is the right side rotor back on.  Anyone know why the brake shield has these two big bulges up front?  I don't see anything it suppose to cover or why they are there.  They don't look like air scoops or anything.

You see here the TWO jacks. The one on the left is just resting on the frame.  The lower arm was used to lift the car. 

The rear rotors have deep centers.  I'll assume to hide the parking brake shoes behind the drum they cover.  Have to check on them later.  Since I rarely  use the parking brake those shoes should last forever.  I always put on the parking brake every few weeks.  I don't leave them on, just press them on, then off.  Keep that cable brake cable moving.
FYI:  I did this on two different Hyundai cars.  BOTH would make a "warp, warp" sound if you braked very hard. No petal pulsation, just the sound.  I sold this car to get a 2011 Kia.
Now that car had the "harness wiring problem", after a few years I sold the Kia and got a 2014 Hyundai  Santa Fe Sport 2.5L  
P.S. less then a year after selling the KIA, that dealer and the Toyota dealer (just built a huge new building two years ago) changed owners.  Months after it changed hands, I found out the father had owned the Toyota and Kia dealership.  Gave it to the "kids" who knew nothing about cars.  How does a Toyota dealership go under, real bad mismanagement and sales people.