Just figured out why my ZVOX 575 HSD won't turn on !
Update 5-18-2020  still works.

This is for your information only:  I do not suggest you repair this item yourself.  This is just how I repaired my dead ZVOX 575.

March 5, 2017:  I was going to watch a DVD, turned on the ZVox and no blue light. Checked the plug power, nope.  Nuttin !

LONG story short I E-mailed their text support.  They said it was a discontinued old model but most likely the remote was dead.  I tried the phone camera trick, point the remote into the lens of a cell phone camera.  Press ON and saw the light from the remote light.  The remote works !

I checked the ohms at the power plug, zip.  Tested power cable and used another cable (always check power to outlet it's plugged into, fixed a few "dead" PCs that way).  No continuity ! Finally got TV off the ZVOX and start taking the back off with many tiny T-screws.  I see a fuse in the amp area, nope tests good.  Start checking continuity from plug wire to back.  Good ground, hot wire has none.   I start cutting off the heat shrink, still can't get continuity from hot.  Bad power switch ?  Finally go right to soldered wires to back of plug, nuttin  again.  Then I notice the soldered connection wires are up and down, not left and right, why ? ?

Looking at the back where the plug goes in, a tiny rectangle.  Pry it out and FUSE.  It's a slow blow (sub woof can really draw temp power) and 1.25A.  Plus it's a very short electrical fuse.  Off to hardware store and $2.50 later, push the big back on,  I pop in the fuse without the rectangle back so I can see the fuse. 
Plug it in and hear a tiny thump.  Plug in a Ipod, SOUND !

That tiny "thump" you hear when you first plug it in means it's ALWAYS on.  Hopefully only using 3 watts or something to run the remote, waiting for the Power On from that remote.

Now this sound bar was plugged into an outlet (turned off) along with a 1500w heater.  Also on same circuit is a 1500w microwave and we forgot the heater was on and popped the circuit breaker, again. Soooo that may be  why the fuse popped.

There is a tiny fuse in the amp area, that was fine.    If the fuse kept blowing, I was thinking of just using this as a speaker box.  Use one of my amps and wire up just the speakers and use the stereo remote for on/off volume.  Glad things worked out for me.   And of course NEVER increase the fuse size.  Now I did go from 1.25 to 1.5A, not a problem.  I would not try a 2A.  Make sure you get "slow blow" fuse.  Blowing fuses usually means something is really not right.

YEP, that 's the entire amp.  Two power transistors mounted to the side of the aluminum heat sinks. Amazed the heat sinks don't go outside the back.  The second smaller board is the RCA plugs and the smaller one is the fiber connection ?

There is another smaller fuse by that blue wire at the edge of the PCB board. The camera focused on the three wires, they are speaker wires.   The woofer magnets were pretty big, could not check cone size.  This does rattle the room though.  You can hear the empty bullet casings hit the ground. Only problem is you can't see what settings you have, nothing but a blue light.

This is the power wire coming in. It goes to a huge transformer bolted to the bottom.  The brown wire goes nowhere.

See that tiny rectangle.  Behind it is a fuse. Note the connection stating 10A, well a slow blow 1.25A fuse is behind that rectangle.