RICOH KR-30sp

This is a written manual for the Ricoh KR-30sp camera.  It has manual and program capabilities.  I will illustrate as much as possible of the abilities and function of this camera.  I will also identify the typical K-mount problems.

Camera abilities.  Shutter: 4s to 1/2000, bulb, P and SP.  Flash sync 1/125, light meter on/off switch, ASA setting, Exposure Compensation +2 to -2, motor drive using a Ricoh XR-2 (with additional grip/shutter release) or PG-4,  firing grip/shutter release adaptor, film tab holder, self timer and light,
K, PK-R, PK-A/R mount lenses.  Possibility of a thread mount or T mount with adaptor.  Possiblity of using the Tamron XR-P mount and Tamron lenses which will fit other cameras with their matching adaptors.  Tripod mount on bottom. Uses 6V for battery supply.  Hot shoe has one pin for allowing special flash to automatically set the shutter speed to 1/125 when the flash is charged.  This is a very nice camera.  Very high shutter speeds, two program speeds, auto exposure when using just a K-mount.

Program Mode - It is possible to point, focus and shoot with the correct lens on this camera.  A lens marked PK - R (Pentax K-mount with Ricoh pin) , R-P (Ricoh K mount with Ricoh pin), PK - A/R (Pentax K mount with Pentax Auto pin and Ricoh pin).  See photo and text below.

Auto mode - From the mid '70 the camera can find the correct exposure with the lens wide open throught the lens (TTL) exposure.  With a non "program" lens the shutter speed of the camera will adjust to match the aperture the lens is adjusted too.  You still have to manually adjust the F-stop to give you a reasonable good shutter speed.

1: The camera has to have a good working battery.  It operates the meter and shutter. Make sure any camera you purchase has clean contacts in the battery area and did not leak.  Rusted (green or white) contacts can mean death to the camera or an expensive, if repair if even possible.  These cameras are 15+ years old.  Need new ones, try Walmart.  Cameras stores seem to up the price of batteries.  The camera takes 2-3v or 4 -1.5v batteries.  It takes FOUR Kodak KS76 or TWO Duracell DL1/3N.  With the camera, bottom up, lens facing away from you. You should be able to read the "open" on the battery door correctly.  Opening the battery access, to the left is the + (plus) tops.  On the right of the case, the - (minus).  The flat part of the battery is + (plus).  The double batteries are said to last longer and are cheaper.

2. You need the RICOH PK-R lenses.  Either a Ricoh or Ricoh compatible.  NOT a plain K-mount or Pentax PK-a if you want any program camera ability.  Look at the lens mount with the lens off.  There is a copper pin at the bottom right of the lens looking at the lens.

 Ricoh KR-30sp  A Pentax program camera has the pin on the LEFT.  Of course!  Cameras are so compatible.   So you can get a Tamron, with the Ricoh XR-P mount (61C).  That mount will fit this camera and the lenses will fit other manual focus cameras with their specific adaptors.  I happen to have Chinon and Pentax cameras, so that comes in handy.

 
  Or you can get a current Vivitar, Phoenix or other make that has the PK-A/R that has both pins.  These lenses will have a "A" or a "P" on the lens that locks the aperture.  This pin is for program mode.  As long as the lens is locked in the A or P, the lens opening value will be shown in the viewfinder, bottom right.  That's the test if it's a PK-R or PK-A/R lens.  If you use a plain K or Pentax PK-A lens you can still use the lens.  The shutter will change speed depending on the lighting, this is called Aperture Priority.  You choose an aperture to keep the shutter speed above what you can hand hold.  The aperture will not show in the viewfinder with these lenses.

3. This camera has a shutter with B (bulb), 4s (sec) to 1/2000, P (program) and SP (Speed Program).  The viewfinder contains shutter speeds LT for "long term" 4s to 2000 and an UP arrow for overexposure & DOWN arrow for underexposure,
P (shows your in Program), M/S (manual/speed priority), AEL (Automatic Exposure Lock), + - (plus-minus) showing exposure compensation settings. Basically just like the XR-P camera.  Light for the viewfinder comes from a clear plastic tab by the ASA setting or you can press the AEL twice.   One will lock exposure, the other will turn it off but leave the light on.  This eats battery life.

Using the camera:

               Meter - There is a ON/OFF switch for the meter.  This will prevent accidential firing and save the battery should the shutter button be constantly pressed while in a camera bag.  See my Chinon CP-5 section on metering and AEL for tips on using this feature.  The AEL (automatic exposure lock) will lock the meter (and turn on the viewfinder light) for special shots.

               Point, Focus, Shoot -   With a correct lens, set the ASA to match the film, set shutter to P, set the lens to "locked" A or P mode (depending on the lens)  check the viewfinder for a good F-stop and shutter speed. Fire.  In program mode you can shoot so long as the shutter doesn't drop below 1/60 with a short lens or stick it on a tripod.  As long as the lens is in "locked" auto the camera will stay in Porgram even if you change to manual mode by moving the shutter speed to specific speeds.

               Speed Priority -  Change the shutter setting to SP.  The shutter won't go below 1/250.  The aperture will go wide open (with a program lens) and then blink showing you need more light if a shutter speed of 1/250 to 1/2000 or higher is not obtained.  Go into a darker area and fire the shutter.  The camera will stick with 1/250 with the lens at wide open.  If that's not enought light, you will get an underexposed picture.

               Manual mode - The lens must be out of "auto".  You must choose the right combination of shutter speed and aperture for a correct exposure, then press the shutter. How you do this.  After you activate the meter by gently pressing the shutter you will see two light bars in the viewfinder.  One solid, this is the correct setting according to the meter.  One will be blinking, this is the current settings.  Change the shutter speeds or aperture to get the blinking to overlap the solid light.  At that point you have a correct exposure.  Why do this?  You could, with the right film and lighting, shoot at 1/2000 at F 2.8.  Freezing the action and bluring the background out.

                AEL - This Ricoh has an Automatic Exposure Lock.  Now, this would only work in Auto (with just a plain K-mount lens or in Program mode.  Holding the camera, on the left side by the lens mount a round button will enable you to "lock" whatever exposure you wish.  This is used for special lighting problems.  Pressing one "locks" the exposure, pressing again would release it.  This would not "lock" the flash.  In the viewfinder you will see the AEL flash when the exposue is locked.  Check the Chinon CP-5 section on AEL

                EC - The dial around the rewind knob allows you to over or underexpose your film in certain instances.  Such as on the beach or with lots of snow.  You should set the EC to +1 to allow more light to reach the film.  It does not have a lock so it can be turned easily, so check it.   The bright beach or snow reflects too much light fooling the meter to underexpose the picture.
When the EC is changed from Zero ( 0 ) there should be a blinking light in the viewfinder right top where the [+ - ] blinks.  Exposure Compensation is also easy accomplished by setting the ASA from the 400 you have in the camera to 200 ASA (one F-stop).  This is a bit easier and informs you in the viewfinder when you did make changes.

            FLASH - This camera can use the special flashes for Ricoh but cannot do TTL flash.  This TTL means "Throught The Lens" flash, a very special feature on other Ricoh models.  That program evaluates the light from the flash coming throught the lens on to the film plane and turns off the flash when enought light has reached the film plane.  This camera with a special flash, like the XR speedlight 240, will set the shutter speed to 1/125 when the flash is charged.  After shooting, the shutter speed will vary until the flash is charged again.  A red block appears next to the 125 in the viewfinder.  You MUST set the aperture to the setting on the flash unit depending on the ASA of the film.  Don't set the lens to "A".   I happen to have a 300P which provides this shutter setting feature as well as TTL flash to some of my more advanced Ricoh cameras.

No red light in the viewfinder when there should be?  Gently wiggle the flash, with the flash lock off, to make sure the metal pins are making a connection.  A rubber erase on the camera's flash contacts can also help.

NEVER use a "dedicted flash" for another camera on this camera.  The pins on the flash could damage the electronics inside the camera.  A standard flash (only one center pin on flash shoe)  can be used on this camera.  Again check the Chinon CP-5 section on flash usage and extra tips.  It applies to all cameras.  When you see Chinon flash, change it to Ricoh flash.

            Self Timer: The shutter must be wound to use the self timer.  Press the red light button above "self" and the light will blink, then blink fast just before it fires.  The camera could have a flash attached.  Just as long as you setup everything before you press the self timer, and a tripod would help.  This also helps with long exposures, less camera shake (again when on a tripod) by using the self timer unless you have a cable release.